I4 - RAKASSA STUDY TOUR - CAIRO 2007

Rakassa!!

  

 

In October ’06 a group of us from Cumbria (plus a few others) had explored and discovered what Cairo had to offer.  Louisa, Tine and I had made a promise to meet in Cairo again – so we had booked our Farida trip as soon as we got back to the UK in 2006.  Had I made a hasty and foolhardy decision?

 

Having had such a great time in October 2006 would I find it hard to discover more to love in Cairo in December 2007? 

 

 

I did harbour quite a lot of concerns about the Rakassa trip in particular. 

 

This was a Rakassa trip – a study course for dancers – whereas the October ’06 trip had been “Discovering Cairo ” with the emphasis on getting the feel of Cairo .

 

The Rakassa course promised hours and hours of study with numerous respected teachers and also, unlike October ’06, I wouldn’t know most of the other members of the group (or their standard of dance). 

 

Would I manage the fitness level, technique level etc? 

 

Having just completed my studies for the JWAAD Foundation Course I had already had what I felt was my fair share of criticism - however constructive.  Critically I was hoping that this trip would help me to get back in touch with the groove, the feel of the dance, after all the assignments and assessments.

 

It had a lot to live up to.

 

 We (Louisa and I) had been talking ourselves up and down all the way from Cumbria to Newcastle .

  

We arrived at the airport feeling – well, giddy is the best way to describe it. 

 

We checked in our bags and wandered about the “duty free” shops, inevitably bumping into Kay and another woman who was coming on the trip – Elaine.  We three chatted excitedly whilst Kay renewed acquaintances with some other women in the departure lounge.  The flight to Amsterdam was great, if a little snug!  At Amsterdam we had promised ourselves food and shopping for cosmetics.  Now those of you who don’t know Louisa need to know Louisa – she gives the best advice about “products” ever!  We spotted some Guerlain golden misty body spray and we wanted it really badly only to find that it is sold out EVERYWHERE!  We were tempted to nick the tester and I think the sales assistant saw the look of desperation on our faces and hid the bottle away!  We might never have made it to Cairo otherwise!

 

Flying to Cairo was fun.  Louisa and I were sitting together and we both decided it would be better to sleep but we had been allocated seats near the loos and it was very busy.  I managed to get some zzzz’s though.  On arrival at Cairo we met Svetlana – a Russian dancer now living in Norway , and a reporter who was going to be with our group.  She had one small bag with her.  Obviously a seasoned traveller!  

 

We stepped out of the airport and I smiled at the hustle and bustle of the taxi area as we sailed through with Kay to our pre-arranged little bus.  (Kay is invaluable - number 1)

  

 We journeyed through the Cairo streets and there was a fogginess about the place which I didn’t remember from last time.  It was warm and muggy but you could somehow tell it was winter.  On arrival at the hotel we were greeted with big smiles and helped to our rooms by (for me) some familiar faces.  (Invaluable Kay no. 2)

 

By some trick of fate I had been given the same room as last time so it was lovely to be there again – they had made some changes which seemed to give the room an added air of art deco sophistication – also, there was a new boiler which I was given instructions to use.  The porter switched on the music channel of the tv (it was 3 a.m.) and welcoming me to Cairo , went out, closing the door behind him. 

  

I opened the heavy blinds and stepped onto the balcony to look below at the streets which were quieter than I remembered – but then last time I had arrived during Eid.  I looked around satisfying myself that I was indeed in Cairo and then went happily to bed in the crisp Egyptian cotton bed sheets.  I must have fallen asleep almost immediately.

  Next morning we congregated in the chandeliered foyer of the Grand Hotel. 

  I I was feeling fine and well.  Tine and the others who made up our group were already in Cairo – Tine had gone a day early (unplanned) and had her own adventures getting from the airport to the hotel!  The rest of our group had arrived a day early (planned) and had visited the pyramids and had already had a class with Yasmina.  We listened to their adventures before being given the “low down” by Kay (invaluable Kay no.3) who then led us on an orienteering trip of the local environs.  This was great for me, as having already done it and taken to wandering about a bit on my last trip, it all felt very familiar straight away and I was raring to go.

 

First we would have something to eat and go to Madame Hekmat’s, Hanan’s and Eman’s to look at costumes – great.  Visit and choose early in the trip in order to get costumes organised before going home (invaluable Kay no 4 ).  

  

 

We were treated to sugar cane drink by Kay. 

 My mum had been very keen on this as a child and the very sound of it when she described it would put me off – ugh, so sweet.  But let me tell you, at this point in our trip mmm, so sweet – and I would be able to tell my mum all about it – I took a photo as proof of my experiences.  Kay showed us the canes stacked outside which indicated that you could get this drink at this particular stall – I would look out for that again.

 

Hmm, the costumiers.  In October ’06 I was happy to watch the others indulge in the whole costume thing and heard people say to me that my shape was not a problem etc etc.  But I had set my heart on meeting the legendary Madame Abla – sadly this was never to be – unbeknown to me at the time, I had missed my chance to meet her though we did visit her boutique. 

This time I had decided that I would consider the whole idea more seriously with some elements of what I would like already in my mind. 

Madame Hekmat’s gorgeous funky designs were not for me though others managed to find some wonderful costumes and were delighted. 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Hanan’s boutique had so much choice and the others all chose costumes and scrunched into the changing area - oohs and aahhs could be heard from outside the curtain!  They were beautiful designs – but nothing quite right for me.

 

Kay looked at me and asked what I was looking for.  I explained to Kay that I would like this fabric - the top like this costume, the back like this one, the bottom to suit my body, the front like this, etc etc.  I was lost in the impossibility of it all.  Kay called Hanan over and asked me to explain all of this to her, with Kay adding things she thought would suit me.

  

Amidst the brouhaha Hanan smiled and said she would do it.  She would make it for me.  She measured me up and off I went feeling a little bemused that I had ordered a costume and that actually, I didn’t know what it would be like!! 

I also began to wonder what this would cost!!??

  

Our next trip was to Eman and Hoda Zaki’s boutique.  A huge changing area was soon filled with chattering women pouring themselves into this and that.  Fabulous designs with sumptuous fabrics and sparkling adornments – balls of diamante!  I consoled myself with thoughts of the costume Hanan was busy with (I hoped) and loitered.  I picked up a dress – clearly unfinished, to move it aside so I could sit down.  I studied the dress a little.  It reminded me of the dresses worn in the old black and white movies – but the fabric and the top were all wrong – for me anyway.  Kay had been watching me – try it on she said, I hovered about and she reminded me that I would need to undress to do this!  Eman came over and studied the dress on me.  She agreed it was not right.  She wandered off to return with another fabric – shimmering and exactly what I had been imagining - which she held against me, moving it this way and that, pinning it here and there.  Eman seemed to know instinctively the look I was going for.  Kay held the fabric out to show Eman where she felt the drop on the skirt might look better.  Eman agreed and then spent some time pinning a piece of fabric across my bust line.  Even in this mish mash – it looked great.  I had found my costume.  Amazing.

  

 I was quite quiet on the way back – we were soon to be moving onto the next thing – but I was just in love with the idea of owning these two fabulous costumes which had been made to my design, with me in mind, for me.  Maybe this isn’t the same for people who can just march in and do this any day of the week, or for those who can just walk in and pick something up and it be, if not a perfect fit, then fabulous anyway.  I guess you had to be me but maybe others of you have been there.

  

That night we went to see Leila on the Nile – we all arrived at the fabulously over the top Nile Pharoan and were quickly seated in comfortable chairs with prime views of the stage (fabulous Kay number…. You get the point!)  When a couple of us announced that we were vegetarian we were told this was not a problem.  We listened to the band and watched the lights along the Nile .  Then one of the lights on a launch began to get closer and closer and I could make out that the launch was heading straight for the side of our boat!  I was a little unnerved by the sight of this and thought that we were going to crash.  I was informed that the launch was bringing our vegetarian meal!  We thought they were joking … but no, they brought the meal – and it was delicious. 

 

Leila was beautiful as ever, but I have to say (and said this to her some days later) that she has changed something about her style. Perhaps it is because she has had her beautiful baby.  Her dance is infused with warmth and confidence and love.  She was always a brilliant dancer but this new Leila is something else!

 

Leila invited us up and we marvelled and enjoyed dancing ON THE NILE !!

 

I think some of us (Louisa, Tine and I) almost burst blood vessels when we realised that there was going to be a Nubian set. 

  

 

We had seen something similar last time and the joy of the two male dancers coupled with Leila’s enthusiasm was marvellous to behold.  I just so get this style when I see these two performers dance.  Besides which, of course, they are gorgeous.  When Kay reminded us that the whole set was repeated upstairs we were off like a shot and though mindful of our behaviour (some of the others on our trip blatently thought we were mad) we had a splendiferous time – no alcohol necessary!  It was so cool in the night air – being in Cairo , on the Nile – no feeling quite like it!

 

Next morning after breakfast a taxi ride to some fabulous dance studios in another part of Cairo .  This trip I did realise the size of Cairo – not just downtown – all over the place.  Or maybe it was just that some of it was becoming familiar and so I could take in the new stuff?  Anyway, we were having classes with SHALABY!!  Excellent. 

 

 

 What can be said about this man? 

 You need to meet him, be taught by him and revel in his experience, skill and charm.  Again – watching him dance saiidi steps – then you really  get it!  I absolutely love classes with Shalaby and we worked hard on a beautifully choreographed piece with combinations and techniques which could easily be transferred.  It was wonderful to dance alongside Shalaby in Cairo with the sounds of the city coming in through the window.

 

Lunch was across the road in a good restaurant which offered just what I needed.  Then followed a class with Khazafy. 

  

 

 

 

 Khazafy is always amazing in my opinion.  He certainly does not leave me unmoved and challenges my ideas about the dance with his balletic style and ideas.  He had quite an entourage of helpers and a drummer.  Kay proved invaluable here and asked a few of the entourage to wait somewhere else.  It was great to have the drumming accompaniment.  Again lots of challenging turns and step combinations – I scribbled away furiously in the break.

                                                   That night we went to a session with Yasmina which was held in her beautiful new apartment.  The history of Cairo , the dance, the singers, the performers, the styles.  What didn’t Yasmina cover?

 

 It was lovely to sit in her apartment, eat and drink and listen to Yasmina’s obvious passion for all things Egyptian spill with her carefully chosen words.  Carefully chosen in order to express the various important themes which were running throughout her talk.  We watched videos and she recommended books and further reading.  We asked questions and discussed dancers and styles.  It was an invaluable insight and Yasmina was a generous and hospital hostess – as I have always found her.

 

                             

    Lucy had agreed to dance for us.  Hoorah!  I had been offered this opportunity last trip and had missed out due to being totally cream crackered.  Mary told me I ought to have gone so I was not missing it second time around – and who knows when Lucy might just stop dancing altogether.  Machinations about cost of entry were going on in the background – I was aware of this but only vaguely as we enjoyed a brilliant sha’abi singer.  Eventually it was all ironed out and we were able to order drinks comfortably.  Lucy was her incredible self – I have seen photographs of her and the real thing is even more amazing – possessing the stage at all times and at one point getting Kay up to dance.  Lucy only likes you to do as she says though – hmm – a diplomat is that Kay, as no two women and styles could be less alike.  Lucy is a force – no doubt about it, and people were showering her with money – big notes too.  The club itself is as seedy as I’ve seen in Cairo but an absolute treat.  Gawd, I was going to be tired the next day – oh hang on – it was the next day … 6 a.m.!

  

 

Giggling in taxis, at my poor Arabic amongst other things, became a theme for us.  On one occasion there were four of us in a taxi and all of us in some haste to try out our Arabic and we veritably shouted our destination at the driver who laughed and set us all off laughing.  What must they think of us?  We had some wonderful taxi journeys.  One such journey was on the way back to the Hotel from the Khan el Khallili.  The plan had been to do some shopping and meet up with Kay at such and such a time and then go on to Sara Farouk’s.

 

When we all gathered, Kay took one look at the mounds of shopping, sticks, drums, shishas etc and said that Sara’s apartment was on the eleventh floor and not too big!  So we took a cab.  Tine, Louisa and I bundled into one – you literally could not see us under the mound of stuff and this set us off again.  There was heavy traffic – one of the rush hours.  The taxi driver would draw up to a car and they would look in to try and see who was under the bags and he would explain that we were tourists and we had been to the Khan – to much hilarity – which would set us off again.  How we made it to the Hotel I’ll never know.  I can honestly say that I have never laughed as much as I did on this trip in years. 

 

Once back at the Hotel we were told to go in a taxi together to Sara’s.  Kay would divi up the taxis depending on who could speak some Arabic and Tine is a seasoned Cairo traveller but Kay would tell the driver the destination beforehand anyway.  We climbed in.  Traffic was heavy again so we decided that to pass the time we would practice our numbers by reading registration plates. 

 

BIG MISTAKE. 

 

The place we were going to was number 30 on street 20 – or something like that, in a certain district.  Well, we were practicing and the driver was listening to us, smiling and nodding, and somewhere along the way the numbers of our destination became confused in his brain – no wonder with us going on.  So we stopped – outside the bakery – as instructed – and the driver pointed up to a block of flats.  We thanked him, paid him and got out onto the street.  It was a lively street with lots going on and festive coloured lights hung along the roadside.  

 

Into the building we went to get into the lift.  The concierge asked us which floor and who we were visiting and we said Sara Farouk and she said there was no Sara Farouk in the building.  OK. 

                                               So out onto the street we went and looked at the baker’s and the building and muttered about what to do next.  Fortunately Tine had her mobile on her so she ‘phoned Kay who put on Sara.  We asked Sara if she could see the coloured lights out of her window – what were we on about she wondered?  She put on her husband Shareef, and we handed the phone to the baker, who handed the phone to some chap who was now standing there.  He spoke to Shareef and then asked us to speak to his friend, who spoke English and that we should follow him.  Hmm, I wasn’t so sure about this although I didn’t doubt the man’s intentions as he was clearly trying to help.  Quite a little crowd was gathering.  I was worried that if we took off from here then we might never find our way anywhere.  We agreed we would continue down the road, walking as if we knew where we were going, and if all else failed hire a taxi and get back to the Hotel.  Walking down the street we were more obvious than we thought as Shareef soon spotted us and greeted us individually.  We were to follow him.  We assumed he was indeed Sara’s husband (having never met him ) and he did take us to their apartment where we were greeted like long lost relatives.  What a splendid evening we were in for.  Also there was Emad el Rashidi – an accomplished and respected oud player amongst other things.  We sang, we danced, we listened to the heavenly music and we had a good supper.  Inspiring and fulfilling. 

  

                                 

 

That evening we went to see Randa dance - she was magnificent.  Her quick but graceful style, her communication of the elements of the dance.  One could give it all up in a fit of pique after watching her but still one feels inspired and entranced. 

 

     Aida Nour I think was a little disappointed with us at first – she was gracious enough to change what she had been planning to do – I could see her brain working to adjust a few things and off we set again in a different direction.  And direction was what it was mostly about.  We had some good Aida Nour stepping and moves but mixed in with this was working in different shapes etc.  Invaluable exercise for those of us who were teaching as it could so easily be transferred and adapted for any style of group dance.  Really enjoyed Aida’s approach, energy and style.  Nearing the end she launched into more challenging combinations as if to test our metal – it was fabulous. 

 

 

                      Lunch, then our Class with Randa – not much can be said about this.  You really do have to experience it. 

 

We worked on a choreographed piece with fabulous combinations which again could be used to add spice to a dance.  She was charming and splendid and even told us how much she loved us!! 

 

I was at one point chanting “We love you Randa!” (Oh dear)  In case you wondered – I’m the one looking sweaty and red!  Classes with Randa are a brilliant work out for the body and brain!  Looking back at these photographs I spot that I was somewhat overwhelmed and trying desperately to hold my head up for some reason – sorry Jo!

 

 That evening at Yasmina’s – a party night.  Louisa and I had been for a fitting to Eman’s and so were unable/unwilling to get straight onto the bus going to Yasmina’s.  She lives near the Marriott – how hard can it be to find her place we said.  Hmm.  Anyway, some time later we were sitting in said Marriott thinking we could do worse than just eat there and go back to the hotel.  Trying to telephone people’s mobiles whilst they were in the midst of a massive party had not been a good plan!

 

 We were eventually given directions and set off into the night feeling a little nervous as we really had no idea where we were going.  I could remember the outside of the building from our previous visit so would know it when I saw it (I hoped).  We wandered about in what we hoped was the right direction.  Trust is everything I think when you feel vulnerable and I trusted Louisa implicitly and we knew we would be okay.  Soon we saw what we thought might be the building and we could hear the music coming from an apartment.  Well, music is everywhere in Cairo – it could be completely the wrong place but we had no choice so up we went! 

 

The dodgy staircase told us we were indeed in the right place!  We were hailed like lost explorers on our arrival and soon welcomed into the gathering of people dancing, singing and eating.

 

  It was lovely to see members of Feret el Negoum again, playing for our pleasure and theirs and there were dancers from the Reda Troupe who enchanted with Melaya Lef and Saiidi.  We had another performance from the “Nubian Boys” (as we were now calling them) and we were all encouraged to get up and dance and put into practice things we had been drip fed all week.  Outside, on the balcony, the pyramids were lit by beautiful hazy purple light.  It’s difficult not to get too emotional here – you would have to know me a bit to know the effect of being in such a space would have on me.  Conversation was buzzing and people were obviously really enjoying one another’s company.  It was difficult to leave but we had to as it was long past Az’s bedtime and the neighbours really loved music but maybe not all night long!  On the bus journey home, people were singing (not always in tune and sometimes even cajoling from the back of the bus to the front and back again!) but it was really good to feel a part of this group of women.

  

 

A friend of mine did warn me that I would love Cairo or hate it, and if I loved it I would become addicted – he was 100% right. I admit that I am already planning when I can next go to Cairo – I spend quite a lot of time deliberating on this.  It’s a good job my family love me!!

                                    

                        

    We did some excellent work in our class with Leila.  Despite having had her passport go missing and the fact that she needed to travel in the next few days, she was as cool as a cucumber and shared some marvellous technique and adaptations to moves we already knew.  This was not a choreography class – far from it – more the “nuts and bolts” as Kay put it later. 

                                                 

The Cairo Sheraton was as magnificent as I remembered and the view from the Casablanca spectacular. 

 

Seeing Soraya dance is interesting in lots of different ways.  She is so tiny and so full of energy – absolute shimmy queen and a reminder to most of us that if this is what it took, then we might as well give up now.  It was wonderful when she danced to Zay el Hawa and she was clearly delighted when our table all joined in the singing and enjoyment of the lyrics.  This may seem obvious to readers but understanding the lyrics truly enhances the whole experience!!  I silently thanked Sara and Emad and promised myself more study!

 

                                                  Endings of busy days were often marked with a quiet manga, chai or shisha in the café in the hotel’s courtyard – always with Tine who inspired me from the beginning all those years ago and introduced me to the idea of the wonder of this city.  

 

Where we start in the dance is I think very important. 

 

We all come for different reasons and certainly I would never have guessed where the journey has taken me – but I am enriched by the whole experience. 

    

 

 I know that there are other tour organisers out there and I’m sure their trips are great.  I may even try a few.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 I have to make a note here though of how I personally have found Kay Taylor’s skills indispensable on both the trips I have been on.  Yes, Kay organises the trips and so she’s bound to be a big part of the whole experience – but I have travelled extensively before now and say with hand on heart that Kay is essential for an introduction to what goes on in Cairo. 

Even dancers living in Cairo would tag along on our trip – Kay has access all areas.  Believe me, Kay is someone who knows everyone you need to know and their dog.  What is more, she is clearly respected wherever she goes and people know – she is a force to be reckoned with.  This makes Kay sound mighty fierce – well, she is if she needs to be!  I feel able to say all this now as I have completed my JWAAD course and so this can’t be seen as sucking up to teacher!                                     On the day I was coming home, Hanan’s costume arrived at the hotel and I tried it on – sashaying this way and that and not quite believing that it was me in the mirror.  I was quite delirious even asking Tine to take a photo of my bum!  Brilliant – but what about the other creation? 

 

Would I get it before I returned or would it be delivered at Fantasia?

 

We waited patiently in Tine’s room (we had checked out of ours) for the hour to come when we would go down to the Greek Club for our evening meal.   We were chilling and drinking tea when there was a knock on the door which made us jump! 

 

Kay came in with a big grin on her face – my Eman costume!!

 

I tried it on and was just quiet for a while and then started squeeling. 

 

I felt absolutely transformed. 

 

Maybe you’ll see this divine costume some time soon. 

 

I hope that I, and my dance, do it justice.